Umami of the Heart

Umami is kind of hard to define. In elementary school we learn that our taste buds can detect four qualities: salty, sour, sweet, and bitter. The fifth of these is umami, a savory fullness of the mouth quality. The Japanese word doesn't really have a direct translation in English. It can be detected in foods like green tea, blue cheese, mushrooms, and miso.

Food memory. When I was growing up, my family would order obscene amounts of sushi from a restaurant for dinner. We'd bring it home and eat it, not at the dinner table, but sitting on sofa cushions on the floor around the coffee table. The restaurant would always throw in at least 10 pairs of chopsticks (that's how much sushi we would order) and a free miso soup or seaweed salad, and we'd proceed to polish off the whole party tray for dinner.

The taste of miso soup has always been something rare and comforting. I would only have it when we ordered sushi and in my opinion, one tiny bowl is never enough. I've tried the dried packets that you just add bowling water to, but those are always disappointing.

My quest for miso paste over winter break yielded two kinds. The one in the back I use for dipping my cucumbers, and the one in front I use for miso soup because it has dashi mixed in. Dashi is a fish stock made from bonito flakes. You've probably heard of it if you've watched Top Chef. But for me, it's one step I don't have to do.

Simply bring 1 and 2/3 cup of water to a boil, add a pinch of wakame (dried seaweed, not to be confused with the toasted nori used for sushi) and some cubed tofu and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and dissolve 2 Tbsp miso paste (with dashi stock) and you have an abundance of umami goodness.

It's really good at clearing your sinuses in allergy or cold season, perking you up on a gloomy day like today, and warming your tummy and heart. The Japanese version of chicken soup. Best of all, it's really versatile. In fact I just came up with an idea for a mussel dish...