Tales from the kitchen and reed desk of oboist/bon vivant/cityphile, Mary Riddell.
An exploration of techniques, acquired tastes, and the realm of overlap between music, food, and drink.
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Spaghetti all' Amatriciana
If Bon Appetit magazine taught me anything this month, it's that I am already awesome at making pasta. But let's face it, I've had a ton of practice. I've always had a weakness for pasta and as a college student it's been my weekly staple. The first thing I ever tried to cook was a recreation of a recipe I saw on Lidia Bastianich's show on PBS. This was even before the days of the Food Network. I did it mostly by memory and with a little guidance (and well-meaning intervening) from my dad. It was an all'Amatriciana recipe that took a little different form: prosciutto, rotini, canned tomatoes painstakingly quartered. I made it this way for years...until this year when I realized that this was too much work and that regular bacon is friendlier on the pocket-book. Also, if you're trying to woo a man with your cooking "bacon" is an important word. "Prosciutto" is not.
Last year Jacob took me to Trattoria DOC on Evanston's Main St. and he ordered Bucatini all'Amatriciana which came with crispy chunks of bacon. This is what made me realize that my recipe was close to something great, and was in fact more work than it needed to be. So I followed Henry David Thoreau's wise words and Simplified!
So this is truly a recipe I "wrote" on my own, but turns out there are pretty similar recipes out there. Like in this month's Bon Appetit for example. I'd like to say I did it first, but there's no point.
Ingredients:
6 slices of bacon (or half a package), cut crosswise into strips
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium onion, chopped
1 can whole tomatoes, chopped with a food processor
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
1 cup grated Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving
1 lb thick spaghetti
salt
Directions:
Set a large pot of water to boil. Add about a tablespoon of salt. (This seems like a lot, but it's not).
Cook the bacon in a large saute pan until crispy. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Discard the bacon grease, leaving all the brown bits in the pan.
Add the olive oil to the same pan. When oil is hot, add the garlic and saute until golden brown. Add onion and saute for about 10 minutes, or until translucent and brown around the edges. The moisture from the onions should de-glaze the pan.
Add tomatoes and their juices to the pan along with the bacon and red pepper flakes. Simmer for about 15 minutes or until most of the liquid has evaporated.
Once you add the tomatoes to the pan, this is a good time to cook the pasta. Barilla Thick Spaghetti calls for a cooking time of 11-12 minutes. I add the pasta to the boiling water and set the timer immediately for 11 minutes. The pasta is usually al dente and just right when the timer goes off.
Remove the sauce from the heat and add the cheese. Stir until melted. Add the spaghetti to the sauce immediately after draining and stir to coat.
Serve and enjoy!
The key to this recipe is the cheeeeese! This is my favorite Pecorino because it's very dry, salty, and distinctly "sheepish" for lack of a better word. The flavor is unmistakable. Also pictured is my Microplane grater which I could not live without. Best kitchen gadget you could buy and I think mine was only $12.
This is the consistency of the tomatoes I use. If you've ever watched the Barefoot Contessa, you'll notice there are a few things she swears by: homemade chicken stock, good extra-virgin olive oil, and canned whole tomatoes (versus buying them diced or crushed). The tomatoes they turn into diced and crushed tomatoes are a lower quality than the ones they keep whole. And if you have a food processor it's really fast and easy to chop them yourself. Don't worry about getting them uniformly chopped. I like how the processor leaves some big chunks on top while still achieving an almost puree in the bottom. It helps coat the pasta with tomato while still leaving those big bites.
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